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Oils vs. creams: what is the best for you?

2.5
min read

Some people are scared of oil. Many skin-healthy oils contain high amounts of essential fatty acids. These serve as essential building blocks of a healthy skin barrier – which is key to having calm, smooth, hydrated skin. For instance, rosehip oil is high in vitamin A, aka nature’s retinol, and absorbs really quickly. Another favorite is avocado oil; rich in plant sterols it has a superior moisturizing effect on the skin. Why do some oils feel greasy and don’t absorb well? A “dry” oil would be one that’s fast absorbing and has a smaller molecular structure. Rosehip, is a great example of this. Castor oil, on the other hand, has a pretty big molecular structure and “sits” on the skin a bit longer. It can have a greasier feeling and takes a very long time to absorb, it has a great slip under your fingers, and you can do a wonderful facial massage with it.

Will your skin freak out if you use an oil?

It depends. Not all oils are created equal: oil = breakouts. Mineral oil, petroleum/petrolatum are typically the culprits in this category. Think Vaseline and baby oil. These are some really big molecules, and they fall into the “occlusive” category — they form a barrier on your skin’s surface blocking air, water or anything else getting in or out. Think of it as covering your skin in plastic wrap. A healthy skin barrier needs to breathe. Don’t forget, your skin is your body’s largest organ. Using oil on my skin sounds scary, but it works great. What are some of the other myths around oil? That oil will make me break out. Hands down, that’s the winner. It all goes back to what type of oil you’re putting on your skin. Another thing to note: because an oil-based product is very concentrated, a little goes a very long way. If you’re considering trying an oil-based routine, maybe start with just one half of your face and then continue to use the products you have on the other. This is the one true way to test how a new routine will work for you.

Do you have to use preservatives with oil?

Generally, the shelf life of an oil can be extended with the addition of an antioxidant like vitamin E. Oils have the potential to oxidize (go rancid) when exposed to light and air.  The perfect example of this is if you store a beautiful bottle of olive oil in clear glass on a sunny windowsill, it will go bad quickly. Since I chose to formulate with oils, I made sure we stored them in dark glass that would help protect from light and air oxidization. Every bottle is small-batch produced and marked with an expiration date. “Women in other parts of the world have long known the secret of using oils in their skincare rituals”. There’s actual archaeological evidence that the use of oils like castor and sesame were being used by ancient Egyptians. Romans used almond oil and later in Italy a group of Dominican monks at Santa Maria Novella (established in the 1200s) blended an oil with avocado and macadamia oils. And of course, olive oil has long been used in Italy and Greece. Women in other parts of the world have long known the secret of using oils in their skincare rituals; we’re just new to the party.

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